By John B Monteiro
Beltangady, Mar 10: Shree Kshetra Dharmasthala, located 100 km from Mangaluru, off the Mangaluru–Chikkamagaluru highway, is set to celebrate its week-long Maha-fest from March 12 - concluding on March 18. Besides the annual three-day Brahmakalashotsava, this year there would also be three-day Ashtabandha Brahmakaslashotsava which is held every twelve years.
This was announced by Padma Vibhushan Veerendra Heggade, Dharmadhikari of Kshetra Dharmasthala while releasing the invitation for the event on March 4. Dr Heggade said that in addition, experts in allopathy, Ayurveda and naturopathy hospitals from institutions managed by SDM Educational Trust under the Kshetra will hold free health check-up camps for the devotees. In view of these major forthcoming events, it is apt to highlight the past and present of this leading pilgrimage Kshetra of Karnataka.
Dharmasthala, host to Shree Manjunathaswami Temple, is a spiritual magnet that traces its origin back to over 800 years. In the popular psyche of illiterate rural folk, Dharmasthala was associated with dharma (fee) food it is reputed to dispense to its visitors – over the higher, spiritual dimension of Dharma. Over the last 100 years it has expanded the domain of Dharma to encompass charity, solace, justice, education, healthcare, conservation, women-empowerment, community service, Ayurveda, yoga and nature cure. But, first let us look at the spiritual domain to which everything got added, specially during the regime of the last three Dharmadhikaris – Manjaya Heggade (1918-1955), Ratnavarma Heggade (1955-1968) and Veerendra Heggade (1968-). The Heggade genealogy starts from Bhimanna Heggade and the present Heggade is the 21st down the line.
The origin of Dharmasthala is coalesced in legend and lore. A pious couple, Birmanna Pergade and Ammu Ballalthi, lived in Nelliady Beedu. The guardian angels of Dharma assumed human form and visited the couple in search of a place where Dharma was practised and could be continued. The visitors were well received and treated by the couple. Pleased over this, the Dharma Daivas appeared in a dream to Pergade and instructed him to set aside the Beedu for the Daivas and dedicate his life to propagate Dharma. This worship continues to this day.
In a subsequent dream, Pergade was asked to build separate shrines for the four Daivas. As per instructions he chose two persons as oracles of Daivas and appointed four persons to help him in his duties as executive head of the shrines. Brahmin priests were appointed to perform rituals. As per their desire, a Shivalinga was installed beside the Daivas and later the Manjunatha Temple was built around the Linga. The Kshetra has since been nurtured by the Heggade family – this surname being a derivation from Pergade.
From that legendary beginning, Dharmasthala today has grown into a vibrant township with thousands of devotees descending on it in quest of spiritual and temporal solace. Such visitors receive free lunch and dinner. Massive kitchens, with modern, hygienic, automated cooking ranges are equipped to feed free devotees from 30,000 to 50,000 daily. Hundreds of people get free or highly subsidised hostelry in its streamlined guesthouses. Some of the rooms, with double beds and attached bathrooms are charged moderately. Beddings are available free against a token deposit. There are instructions not to get married in the rooms. Such marriages can be solemnised in the temple itself – specially during the annual mass marriage mela. Once in a year Dharmasthala hosts mass marriages where the expenses are met by the Kshethra. When last tracked by me, the bride was presented a gold mangalasuthra and the couples were given clothes. Started in 1972, this year (44th) the event is scheduled on April 30. It may be noted that smoking, drinking alcohol and eating non-vegetarian food is taboo in the township.
That takes us to Dharmasthala’s characteristic as a Kshethra of peace and non-violence. It is because there is a fusion of Jain and Hindu traditions here. The main Deity and Daivas are Hindu, the priests are Brahmins and the Dharmadhikaris are Heggades – Jains. Dharmasthala is host to the 39-ft tall monolithic granite statue of Bahubali (Gomateshwara). While the other three Gomateshwaras in Karnataka – at Shravanabelagola, Karkala and Venoor – are a few centuries old, the one at Dharmasthala is of recent origin. It was commissioned by Ratnavarma Heggade in 1967, completed in 1970, installed on Bahubali Hill in 1975 and inaugurated in 1982. It was carved from a single rock by the late Rangela Gopala Shenoy at Karkala – whom this writer had the privilege of interviewing in his small workshop-cum-residence off Karkala’s famed Venkataramana Temple, the entrance of its sanctum sanctorum displaying the master-pieces of this much-recognised sculptor. The 170-tonne statue was transported over a distance of 64 KM on a trailer with 64 wheels and powered by three tractors of 250 HP each. The statue has a 13 ft. pedestal and is installed atop Bahubali Hill.
The institutions started by Dharmasthala are concentrated at Ujire, off the Mangaluru- Chikamagalur Highway (near Belthangady), and are also spread all over Karnataka. These include educational institutions under SDM Educational Trust and Society such as SDM College, Ujire, SDM Law and Business Management School, Mangaluru, SDM College of Dental Science, Dharwad, SDM College of Engineering and Technology, also at Dharwad, SDM Institute of Management Development, Mysuru, SDM College of Naturopathy and Yogic Sciences, Ujire and SDM College of Ayurveda, Udipi and Hassan. The list is now longer and keeps on lengthening with the dynamic growth record of Kshetra Dharmasthala.
Dharmsthala itself, beyond being a pilgrim magnet hosts a number of things of tourist interest. The Manjush Automobile Museum is unique. It has 51 vintage cars in showroom condition. The oldest is a one cylinder Renault of 1903. One car of 1948, Mercedes Benz, has horns like a buffalo. All of them are above 60 years. There is also a 1915 Fordson tractor with crane, a 1926 ambulance and a 1926 fire engine. There is a car in which Mahatma Gandhi travelled apparentlyon his two visits to the undivided South Kanara. All the antique auto beauties are maintained in running condition by a dedicated team of mechanics. There are grand bullock carts used by Kathakali troupes in Kerala and 13 decorated horse carriages or wagons, the earliest dating back to 1864. There was a moderately-priced (Rs 3) entry ticket for this museum when I visited it in the last decade.
Just outside the museum there was a trainer aircraft. Close by three elephants swung their trunks to ward off flies. They were not tethered nor was there a mahout to control them. But, that is the non-violent chemistry of Dharmasthala. On an earlier visit, the elephants, then stationed near the temple, kissed my Parsi and Gujarathi lady friends from Mumbai with the snout of their trunks. We took photos of the visitors caressing the elephants. Apart from the trainer aircraft, there was an Avro propeller driven plane which serviced Mangaluru-Mumbai route before the jets came on the scene.
Finally, why do devotees, pilgrims and people at large throng to temples and kshetras like Dharmastala? On answer is given by John Andrew Widtsoe (1872-1952), US author, scientist and academician: “Spiritual power is generated within temple walls, and sent out to bless the world … Every home penetrated by the temple spirit enlightens, cheers, and comforts every member of the household. The peace we covet is found in such homes. Indeed, when temples are on earth, the whole world shares measurably in the issuing light; when absent, the hearts of men become heavy…”
Veteran journalist and author, John B Monteiro now concentrates on Editorial Consultancy, having recently edited the autobiography of a senior advocate, history and souvenir to mark the centenary of Catholic Association of South Canara and currently working on the history/souvenir to mark the platinum jubilee of a chamber of commerce & industry.