September 24, 2011
Dynasties, civilizations and great cities of the world often have their fortunes in cycles. They have their ups and downs. Some recover from the bad times but a few languish in misfortune for eternity after a devastating fall. The tale of North Karnataka City Badami is one such touching case.
During the early years of 7th century AD, it was one of the most prominent cities of the world. As Great Chinese traveler Hiuen Tsang proclaimed it was reined by India’s most powerful emperor. Great Islamic scholar Al Tabari upheld it’s prominence by mentioning it in his chronicle of Kings and Prophets as the city to which great Persian King Khosrau II sent his emissary.
Here lived the warriors who wreaked havoc and miseries on powerful north Indian king Harsha‘s Elephant brigade and forced him to recognize Narmada as his border. Also, in all probability, from here were dispatched the powerful and efficient armies which nipped in the bud, the overt ambitions of all conquering Arabs, who tried to attack India (Thana, 643 A.D.) during the early periods of Islam’s glorious conquests (to keep them off the region for another six centuries).
Falling out of favour for more than 1000 years has taken its toll on Badami. Being in poverty ridden north Karnataka and being ruled by people ignorant of heritage and tourist potential for years has not helped it cause too.
We hear of Badami right from our primary school days and we are curious to visit it too. However, 500 Kilometers geographical distance and still larger cultural distance makes it almost impossible to visit the place. I, after my recent splurge into Chalukyan History, felt the irresistible need to visit and to have a feel of the place.
Badami looked a completely different place. A narrow road, a modest Bus stand, few dozen shops and handful of autos, taxis, tangas and tempos make Badami of today.
There are no kings, no warriors or courtiers. Only a few resting cows, roaming swine’s and street usurping herds of goats now rule the place. But, two kilometers away, perched on a huge almond colored hill are the last vestiges of Badami’s glorious past, the Chalukyan Cave Temples of Badami.
The Cave Temples
In the Badami temple complex, forty grand stone carved steps lead to the first cave temple and to visit a succeeding cave there are no independent steps. You need to visit the gods in sequence. For that matter, these are quite secular gods. First one is Shivite Cave, the last one is Jain cave while the rest belong to Vaishnavite deities.
In a way, it is a package tour to heavens. During your walk, gods present themselves to you in their most vibrant and forceful forms. You find them glorious and awe inspiring. Following were some of the most Stunning statures
Eighteen armed dancing Shiva is the first marvelous sculpture that you come across in the first cave. Lord of destruction performs the dance in almost animated manner covering array of dance postures carrying all his mythological implements. Nandi , Shiva’s vehicle, leans his head as Ganesh and his consort Parvathi join him in the dance.
Ardha narishwara is a master piece which is a harmonious merger of two diverse forms, as diverse as vertically split physical frames of a man and a woman. Unexplainable creativity might have undergone to imagine the form let alone carving it in the stones. Harihara is another of such fusion where Gods Shiva and Vishnu are merged into halves and which also portrays that the Vedic gods weren’t competitors as it happened centuries later in few of the subsequent Dravidian Kingdoms.
Varaha , the boar incarnation of Vishnu, majestically and gracefully lifting Lady-Earth out of the demonic land is a striking carving. Vishnu alighted on Sheshanaga and Vamana in his super form as Trivikrama spreading two of his legs on earth and sky and reaching out to Bali’s head with the third are captivating works. Partly vandalized Narasimha (man-lion) incarnation of Vishnu is a note worthy carving.
I was more fascinated by the statues of the lesser Gods!. “Vidhyadara “ couple floating and hovering over the skies came close to look real. Their bond and relish have come out in a poignant and poetic manner; they very much looked any couple on honeymoon. Then there were the celestial love making couple whom I noted while stretching my neck to peer at the roofs. They didn’t seem much bothered by my presence.
Jain caves seem to have received special attention of the vandals. Faces of many of the statues here have been scratched. Relatively less ornate but exceedingly graceful Jain Tirthankaras provide a diverse and sating sight. They are mostly busy meditating and solemnly posing. Some meditate long enough to allow the creepers to wind around their limbs.
Gigantntic lake “Agasthya “ and a complex of 7th century temples are added attractions. The statues in these temples are either damaged or missing but their exterior is grand. Buthanatha, Jambuling Complex of temples and the Hill top and lower Shiva temples are all grand examples of Chalukyan architecture.
Wonderfully carved statues are not the only things you find inside the 6th Century cave temples of Badami. There, in their shadowy womb, garbed in the serene silence, lay the glory of Chalukyan dynasty and divine beauty of ancient craftsmanship. Visit to the place, with an awareness of the historical background is likely to be a satisfying experience.
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