October 13, 2011

In order to proceed to our third destination-Kedarnath, we had to return by the same road. As  we had started from Gangotri at around 4 pm, by the time we reached Bhatwari village, it was getting dark and even started raining. Hence, Sachhu halted the vehicle near a lodge where we spent the night.

Early in the morning we started our journey again and after travelling for few kilometers halted at a huge and magnificent ashram on the banks of river Bhagirathi known as “Pilot Baba Ashram”. It is a great place depicting the Indian history and has idols of almost all of the Gods, Goddesses and Saints of India some of them including those of Shiva, Ganesh and Goddess Kali of gigantic size.

When we visited this site, the entire ashram complex was under renovation and expansion. The pathway passing through the complex slopes down to the Bhagirathi River and lines with statues of various deities and sages including the famous Seven  Sages (Saptarshi) of India. There is also a large statue of Buddha. Another aspect that attracted me was the landscaping with gardens with beautiful flowers. Outside the entrance to the ashram comples, there is a beautiful panel depicting a scene from Mahabharatha-Lord Krishna and Arjun on a chariot. The entrance has Japanese elements of architecture with conical shaped tile roofs with dragons on the roofs. This is in honour of one of the staunch disciples of Pilot Baba. There is also a workshop where statues of various deities in different sizes are being made.

The ashram of Pilot Baba in the centre of the complex is an embodiment of luxury. It has spacious rooms with modern amenities. The doors of some of the rooms are covered with silver plates.

There is an interesting background to Pilot Baba. He was originally known as Wing Commander Kapil Advait who fought for India in 1965 and 1971 wars and also served as personal pilot for Indira Gandhi,  later in 1973, became a God man and came to be known as “Pilot Baba”. He has been regularly attracting thousands of curious people to witness his performances such as burying himself in airtight glass box or submerging himself under-water for days or weeks at a time. Pilot Baba claims that he can perform these incredible performances due t his mastery over yoga. However, many rationalists have questioned Pilot Baba’s claims and he has been also in the centre of many controversies. However, his ashram complex near Bhatwari is developing like a spiritual Disneyland.

After spending considerable time at Pilot Baba’s ashram complex we proceeded to Uttarkashi, district headquarters of the Uttarkashi District. As Sachhu had to undertake minor repairing work of the vehicle, he asked us to visit the Kashi Vishwanath Temple in the centre of the town by the side of which I could see a number of sadhus waiting for alms.

Situated at a distance of 145 kilometres from Rishikesh and at an elevation of 1158 metres on the bank of river Bhagirathi, this picturesque Uttarkashi town acquires importance as it is an important stopover for pilgrims visiting Gangotri and on way back has to pass through it in order to proceed to Kedarnath.

Our next leg of journey through the ridges of the mountains was quite exhilarating. As we moved on the rugged and uneven long winding roads prone to landslides, we could see the hill-people engages in their work-may be in the paddy fields or carrying grass or wood on their back in special conical baskets. Being hilly terrain, these women have to bear the weight on their back as they have to bend forward while climbing the slopes of the mountains.

Being monsoon season, the entire region was cloaked with lush green cover. We could see terraced paddy fields covering the sloppy mountains where transplantation work had completed. At few places the work was still in progress.

Agriculture is practiced in the river valleys of Uttarakhand. A small area, ten to fifteen percent  of the total land area is under cultivation. Over hundreds of years, many of the slopes of the mountains have been cut into field terraces, a common characteristic of mountain agriculture throughout the world. The region's farmers have also developed advanced manure, crop rotation, and intercropping systems. Most land on the slopes is un-irrigated.

Agriculture is not a profitable means of employment in this region due to the uneven geographical conditions, small terraced fields and non-availability of proper irrigation facilities. Thus, except during monsoon, when paddy is being grown predominantly, during other seasons, the farmers of this region practice dry farming. Most of the farmers being small landholders whatever they produce is barely sufficient for themselves and have very little surplus for market. With lack of other gainful employment, many youngsters from the Gharwal region join Indian army or migrate to other cities for jobs.

As it was past 1 pm, we could not come across any dhaba or hotel where we could have our lunch. At around 2pm, Sachhu suddenly hit the break and halted the vehicle at a lonely place where there was a dilapidated structure which served as house and food outlet. Rarely travelers halt at this place. When we asked for food, the elderly couple said that they can provide Maggie noodles which was easier to prepare. However, we needed some sort of conventional food. In a cooker there was some rice which they served with watery gram curry which we consumed and hit the road again.

We had the company of Bhagirathi River till the town of New Tehri from where we took a turn towards Kedarnath. On this route also we could see the terrace farming and human settlements at intermittent intervals.

Though the direct distance between Gangotri and Kedarnath is around 31 kilometers and as there is no connecting road due to mountains, pilgrims and tourists have to make a roundabout detour by rugged and winding road covering a distance of about 269 kilometers. This distance cannot be covered in a single day. Hence, we had to make a second stopover at a place known as Chirbatiya Khal. The owner of the lodge, who came to know that we  were retired lecturers from Mumbai said that he too serves as a Horticultural lecturer in a nearby college and was quite considerate to us. He even allowed the ladies in the group to prepare ‘kichdi’ as per their and of course our liking and also ladies finger (bindi) vegetable which we relished.

Getting up early in the next morning, one again we were on the road heading towards Kedarnath. From a town know as Tilwada  we could see the Mandakini River which originates at Kedarnath and followed its course through the road.

On the way once again we had to halt to replace a punctured tyre. As I was exploring the surrounding areas, I was surprised to see a jackfruit tree, an unusual sight in this region, with few twisted jack-fruits.

After passing through the towns of August Muni, Chandrapuri and Guptkashi we reached a transit point by noon known as Sonprayag in Rudraprayag District of Uttarakhand where we halted in anticipation of visiting Kedarnath the next morning which would take the entire day.

Following lunch we had rest up to 3 pm and thereafter Sachhu drove us to an ancient temple known as Triyugi Narayan at Triyuginarayan Village at a distance of 14 kilometers away from Sonprayag at the top of a mountain range with an altitude of 1,980 metres (6,500 ft).

The ancient temple of Triyugi Narayan is dedicated to Vishnu. This temple has been famous due to the legend of the marriage of Shiva to Parvati. According to Hindu mythology, goddess Parvati was daughter of Himavat or Himavan - the personification of the Himalayas. She was the rebirth of sati, the first wife of Shiva - who sacrificed her life when her father insulted Shiva. Parvati initially tried to allure Shiva by her beauty, but fails. Finally, she won Shiva by practicing rigorous penance at Gauri Kund, which is 5 kilometers from Sonprayag. It is said that Shiva proposed to Parvati at Guptkashi before they got married in the small Triyuginarayan village at the confluence of Mandakini  and Sone-Ganga rivers.

The legend further says that the  marriage of Shiva and Parvati was formalized by Vishnu wh acted as Parvati’s brother, while Brahma acted as the priest that was witnessed by by all sages of the times. The holy fire in front of the temple (Havana-kund or Agni-kund)that was ignited at the time of the marriage of Shiva and Parvati is believed to be still burning and the villagers have been keeping it alive through successive generations. Hence, the temple is also known as the ‘Akhand Dhuni’ temple. Pilgrims who visit this temple consider the ashes from the burning fire as holy and carry it with them. It is also believed that ashes from this fire are supposed to promote conjugal bliss. The exact location of the marriage is marked by a stone called ‘Brahma Shila’, in front of the temple.

After spending the night in the hotel at Sonprayag, we woke up early in the morning and Sachhu drove us to Gaurikund from where we hired horses for Rs.1000/- each to reach Kedarnath temple and back covering the one-way distance of 14 kilometers. As it was raining we purchased make-shift plastic rain-sheets costing Rs.20/-each.

Kedarnath is the most remote of the Char Dham sites,  located in the Himalayas, about 3584m above sea level near the source of head of  River Mandakini, one of the tributaries of River Ganges.  It is believed that the temple of Kedarnath, dedicated to Shiva has been in existence since  the era of  Mahabharatha when the Pandavas are supposed to have pleased Shiva by doing penance there.

According to legend, the Pandavas after having won over the Kauravas in the Kurukshetra war, felt guilty of having killed their own brothers and sought the blessings of Lord Shiva for redemption. He eluded them repeatedly and while fleeing took refuge at Kedarnath in the form of a bull. On being followed by the Pandavas, he dived into the ground, leaving his hump on the surface. The remaining portions of Lord Shiva appeared at four other places and are worshipped there as his manifestations. The arms appeared at Tungnath, the face at Rudranath, the belly at Madhmaheshwar and his locks (hair) with head at Kalpeshwar. Kedarnath and the four above mentioned shrines are treated as Panch Kedar.

Kedarnath temple is an imposing sight, standing in the middle of a wide plateau surrounded by lofty snow covered peaks. The present temple, built in the eighth century A.D. by Adi Shankaracharya, stands adjacent to the site of an earlier temple built by the Pandavas. The inner walls of the assembly hall are decorated with figures of various deities and scenes from mythology. Outside the temple door, a large statue of the Nandi Bull stands as guard. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the exquisitely architecture Kedarnath temple is considered to be more than 1000 years old.

At the approach of winters in the month of November, the holy statue of Lord Shiva, is carried down from Kedarnath to Ukhimath, and is reinstated at Kedarnath, in the first week of May. It is at this time, that the doors of the temple are thrown open to pilgrims, who flock from all parts of India, for a holy pilgrimage. The shrine closes on the first day of Kartik (end of October or the first week of November) and reopens in Vaishakh (end of April or the first week of May) every year. During its closure the shrine is submerged in snow and worship is performed at Ukhimath.  People associated with the temple also shift their settlement  from Kedarnath to nearby villages.

After the  strenuous  horse ride to and from Kedarnath, we returned to Gaurikund in the evening from where Sachhu picked us up and brought us back to Sonprayag where after dinner we had good night rest before starting for the fourth and the last destination of the Char Dham tour-Badrinath.