Bharat Textile report
with exclusive pics from Rons Bantwal
for Daijiworld Media Network - Mumbai
Mumbai, Mar 28: The Autumn/Winter 2007-08 collection titled ‘Geometry’ presented by Shyamal and Bhumika’s at Lakme Fashion Week was a fine controlled collection with just the right touches of styling and drama.
Using graphic shapes, the duo had silhouettes that matched the embellishments of the garments ranging from the smock, to shift, will power dresses and long flowing gowns, while the fabrics wes a mélange of matka silk, silk wools along with pure silk, velvet, georgette and crepe with a touch of shimmer from Lurex.
However, the colour story was very restrained with metallic silver, gold and copper surrounded by grey, charcoal and black. To add some excitement to the palette the designers added a few hints of violet, yellow bright red and off white.
But it was with the adornments of the garments that Shyamal and Bhumika scored as they added handwork detailing and embellishments that gave a perfect union of theme and craft in just the right proportions.
The orange cocoon dress with geometric embroidery, the smart cream peplum jacket with matka silk skirt followed by the scalloped edged coat was the start of a promising collection.
The geometric motifs appeared cleverly for the bodice, belts and in the front of the dresses. The hemlines of the dresses were either short or floor length.
The finale section of black velvet gowns proved the designers mastery over embellishments and style when stylish velvet capes with just a hint of sparkle added to them and gowns with abstract motifs were elegant.
The unusual pre-stitched sari was a stunner with a sexy high side slit.
Telegraph report:
The power of fashion brought to light forgotten or hidden cultures which were vividly demonstrated on an exotic opening day at the Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai yesterday (Tuesday).
Jungle fever: tiger prints were the main focal point of Nikasha Tawadey's intricatly designed tunics
The young designer, Sonam Dubal, from the former Himalayan kingdom of Sikkim, took his audience on fashion’s equivalent of an ancient caravan across Central Asia, weaving inspirations from Uzkekistan, Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan together with the traditional handcrafts of his own homeland.
His collection, sold under the Sanskar label, focused on an ethnic and exotic silhouette in traditional, hand-woven and handblock-printed silk and cotton. Long, flowing coats, and kaftans were worn with pleated trousers. ‘Sherwani’ small-collared jackets and side-tied tops came with wrap-trousers, layered with a striped apron, or Tibetan ‘bakhu’ skirts.
The colour palette of deep reds, saffron, brown and turquoise echoed the monastic robes of Bhutan, while many of the geometric, ‘mandala’ and cloud prints owed their origin to Tibet. Detailed ‘zari’ metallic embroidery and multi-coloured, mirrored patchwork trimmed evening cloaks and sashed robes.
Earlier, Nikasha Tawadey, who numbers Elizabeth Hurley and Anna Kournikova among her clients, based her collection upon the ethnic prints of the Saura, Godaba and Bonda tribes of the state of Orissa on the east coast of India.
Silk chiffon and brocade, printed with tigers and leopards, were used for short shifts and off-the-shoulder tunics, worn with gold stretch micro-minis and knicker-bockers, tied at the knee.
Intricate chain, coin and bead-work decorated jewel-toned, raw silk kaftans and sensual, empire-line gowns in animal-print chiffon were embellished with trailing, and multi-coloured striped ribbons.
Maharajah-inspired velvets, lavishly embroidered and beaded in silver, gold and pearls, dominated the Ananya collection, designed by sisters, Anu Mirchandani and Nandita Mahtani, who have a flagship boutique in London’s Notting Hill.
Mumbai’s Lakme Fashion Week, featuring the autumn/winter collections of more than 40 different designers, continues until Saturday.