Personal Reflections of 17th Century Account of South Canara

August 20, 2021

Gabriel Dellon (1649-1710) was a French traveller who visited India in 1673. He is one of the lesser known 17th century European travellers to India as compared to Bernier, Tavernier or Manucci. He was otherwise well known as a foreigner who was tried in the Portuguese Inquisition in India. Historian Ira Vangipurapu has shown that though he was a devout practising Catholic, he would wish to enter into debates with priests on baptism and the question of divinity in images. He refused to kiss the images of Mary or wear a rosary and such actions likely got him into trouble. His account of the inquisition, "Relation de l'Inquisition de Goa," published in 1687 became popular in Europe, and was quickly translated into many languages before being put on the "Index Librorum Prohibitorum" in 1690 - a list of books that were prohibited for Catholics to read. The focus of this article however is his description of the South Canara region in another work, "Relation d'un Voyage des Indes Orientales." Some of the descriptions about the place that Dellon wrote about 350 years ago evoke similar experiences even today.


First page of Gabriel Dellon's book on the Inquisition, 1688 edition

When on a boat towards Mangalore, Dellon and his crew had a tough time evading the rocks in the water. Just as one ferries to St. Mary's island in Udupi, numerous columnar lava rocks sprout up from the sea. Dellon writes, 'We expected every moment to have been split upon the rocks, which lay hidden just under the surface of the water, but at last we had the good luck to escape and get safely on shore.' His general description of Mangalore port has not changed much even today, for it has 'an excellent road for ships to anchor in, [and] whilst the rains last, the ships may enter the river [Nethravati] without any hazard, it being all the time very deep and broad.' While the dizzying pollution of the Mangalore Special Economic Zone seems to be relatively new, Dellon also saw a similar industrial hub run by the Portuguese, permited by the King of Canara, though he liked the 'clean air' of the place. Feitorias as they were called, these factories were basically transshipment zones, but also places where merchants came to trade. Art historian Ebba Koch has shown that Mughal King Jahangir kept agents at these Feitorias to collect exotic objects and animals, a noted one being a turkey that Jahangir received in 1612. It is through these same factories that the first rhinoceros travelled to Europe in 1577 and in recent times, how Pilikula most likely got the hippo, an animal native to Africa!


A Dutch factory/feitoria in Hooghly, around 1650's

Thanks to the modern day Banks and the fast food Darshinis, the thriving business of the region is well known around the world. This is something our French man attested to as well when he felt that men from Canara were 'not so brave, mostly addicted to commerce, for which reason, you meet them in all parts of the Indies [India], to vend their commodities.' On the topic of feasts, he saw the celebration style of this region as the 'most extravagant in the world.' He observed how they placed the idols on chariots filled with flowers. As an honour to God some devotees would place themselves in the path of the chariot to be crushed to death. Though unheard of today, the closest thing we can imagine is the Angapradashinam. The practice of being crushed under the chariot wheel was also recorded as early as in the thirteenth century by the traveller Franciscan monk Odoric of Pordenone. Odoric noticed this practise at Jagannath in Odisha, though some historians have doubted the practice all together.

This firangi traveller's views on the people of Canara were noted in relation to other communities, like comparing the Canarese laws and customs to that of the Malabars, or how they dressed differently from the people of Surat. We can infer that Canara was economically prosperous, first confirmed by his statement on commerce and trade, but also by his brief explanation of rice cultivation. Dellon says that rice was not only sent from the region to different parts of India, it was also sent to Yemen (Socotra), Mozambique and different parts of Europe. It is believed to have been first introduced to Europe by returning members of Alexander's India expedition in the fourth century BCE. Rice had a steady export thanks to Arab traders that controlled trade in the Indian Ocean until it was disrupted by the Portuguese with the arrival of Vasco de Gama. As an effect of the 'Columbian Exchange,' the Portuguese introduced to India food items from the New World (Americas) like tomatoes and potatoes, adding global roots to our tomato saar and masala dosa that form the Tuluva cuisine. Similarly, my grandmother who went early to church to snuff with her friends, would have to thank the Portuguese for the church as well as the tobacco they introduced to the region.


An image of the Inquisition, 1688 edition

What interested me most in reading Dellon's account are the tiny facts that he mentions which other traveller accounts usually miss. For example, while serving time in a Goan prison, he explicitly mentions that breakfast was served at 6, lunch (he referred to it as dinner) at 10 and dinner (which he called supper) at 4, while we generally eat breakfast at 10 and snacks at 4! Being a foreigner, he was served bread, fish, fruits and sausages, while the locals would get just congee and fish. He was finally released in 1677 after four years of investigation, and left for France, reminiscing that he 'had the happiness to arrive in perfect health in my native land.'

 

 

 

By Joshua Fernandes
Joshua Fernandes is a history teacher at Rishi Valley School, Andhra Pradesh. He is from Kemmannu, Udupi where his parents and grandmother reside. He did his BA from St Joseph’s College, Bengaluru, and MA Philosophy from Manipal University. He listens to Carnatic music and plays chess.
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Comment on this article

  • David Fernandes, Karkala

    Tue, Sep 19 2023

    Wonderful Joshua. Well researched article, an eye opener for all of us. It is so pleasent to read and understand rich heritage of land we live. Looking forward to read more such articles from you. God bless you.

  • David Fernandes, Karkala

    Tue, Sep 19 2023

    Wonderful Joshua. Well researched article, an eye opener for all of us. It is so pleasent to read and understand rich heritage of land we live. Looking forward to read more such articles from you. God bless you.

  • Sameer, Dehradun

    Mon, Aug 23 2021

    Very good work ..a good research indeed.

  • Carmaleen, SR Lanka/Abu dhabi

    Mon, Aug 23 2021

    Wonderful review Joshua!! Well worded ..look forward for more articles . God bless you.

  • Carmaleen, SR Lanka/Abu dhabi

    Mon, Aug 23 2021

    Wonderful review Joshua!! Well worded ..look forward for more articles . God bless you.

  • mohan prabhu, Mangalore/Canada

    Sat, Aug 21 2021

    Good reflections based on historical accounts. Found it a bit short on the Inquisition and Dellon's story that I remember reading in the documents in the Library of St. Paul University in Ottawa. Dellon had to escape to Madras (now Chennai) to avoid being tried at the Inquisition. His portrayal of horrors of Inquisition is well reflected in his accounts.

  • Leena Mathias, Pilar-Shirva

    Sat, Aug 21 2021

    Very well written unique article with personalized presentation Joshua! Keep it up! With all best wishes and blessings

  • Renny Lobo (Nee Rodrigues), Bangalore

    Sat, Aug 21 2021

    Well done Joshua, rare glimpse of the history of events and the reflections to read. Very happy to know that you a Teacher of History my most favourite subject. May you reach higher heights in your field, my sincere wishes and blessings. I always admire your unique way of finding happiness in simple things in life. God bless you. Awaiting to read many more write up and articles from you.

  • Ivan Saldanha-Shet, Mangalore. Rosario

    Sat, Aug 21 2021

    Dear Mr.Joshua Fernandes, Indeed an authentic and unique account , you have done well to highlight the rare points of the time and proper information on this matter. Hope more people read it and get a better view . Interesting to note you are in AP now. Please keep us enlightened when possible. Thanks & Regards -ivan.

  • John Edward D Lima, Udupi/ Abudhabi

    Sat, Aug 21 2021

    Well done Joshua. Very interesting article to read and hope to see many more in future. Keep up the good job. Stay blessed.

  • Owen Rodrigues, Kallianpur

    Sat, Aug 21 2021

    Love to know our ancestors land. Good article.

  • Sajid Nazir Chaudhry, Dubai UAE

    Sat, Aug 21 2021

    Well written historical and informative article weldone.

  • Roshan, Mangalore

    Sat, Aug 21 2021

    'he would wish to enter into debates with priests on baptism and the question of divinity in images. He refused to kiss the images of Mary or wear a rosary and such actions likely got him into trouble'.....this getting into trouble in the 1600's hasn't changed much and getting into debates/questioning beliefs, asking for rationale behind such beliefs would get you into trouble even today!!!!

  • Ozzie, Bombay / Mangalore

    Sat, Aug 21 2021

    Excellent composition Joshua...!!! This was some exceptionally interesting Historical Data with facts so very well illustrated & summarized in this article. Do keep up your writing & know that your work has already inspired so many young impressionable minds. Your work will continue to motivate & inspire so many more. Thank you for giving us all a wonderful history lesson with this write up.

  • James P DSouza, Mulki / Abu Dhabi

    Fri, Aug 20 2021

    Good Reflection Joshua. Looking forward more from you on the Canara Catholic and Konkan growth Keep it up

  • Geetha Dias, Chikmagalur

    Fri, Aug 20 2021

    A well written article. I got to learn a bit about how South Canara region functioned 350 years ago. Congratulations!

  • Vincent Barboza, Shankerpura/ Fujairah- U.A.E

    Fri, Aug 20 2021

    Very well written, interesting history. Well done Joshua.

  • Ben D'Souza Prabhu, Mangalore, Bombay Bandra now in Canada

    Fri, Aug 20 2021

    Thank you our dear Joshua for such a nice personal presentation of this thought provoking researched well written Article on " South Canara " of 17th Century. I find you are really gifted for this type of presentation. May Our Lord Bless you.

  • Manohar, Udupi

    Fri, Aug 20 2021

    Angapradashinam. The practice of being crushed under the chariot wheel - never heard of. Is there any other historical reference to this practice?

  • Nisha, Mangalore, Abu Dhabi

    Fri, Aug 20 2021

    Well written Joshua. Look forward to reading some more of your articles.

  • Nancy Alex, Mangalore/Canada

    Fri, Aug 20 2021

    Very well written Joshua, I enjoyed reading it and learnt a lot as well. Way to go Joshia.

  • Stanley Dsouza, Kemmannu/Dubai

    Fri, Aug 20 2021

    Very Interesting History. Well Done Joshua.

  • Valerian Mathias, Belman/kemmannu/ Mumbai

    Fri, Aug 20 2021

    I read your article on the Inquisition. It's was good to reflect of the past and how it came into existence.

  • Denzil, Mangalore

    Fri, Aug 20 2021

    Good review and thanks for the article. It would be more interesting if the author could give us little more deeper insights on Gabriel’s personal experiences in Canara specifically with Mangalore of that time. What he observed, and what’s disappeared since then. Is the book available anywhere now?


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