Commandaria: The Wine of Apostles

  •   Thu, Jul 04 2024
  •   By Varghese Johnson

July 4, 2024

Cyprus is home to the world’s oldest wine which is still in production. This luscious drink is said to be the world's oldest wine appellation that dates back to 800 B.C. Commandaria is an amber coloured, dessert wine produced from Xynisteri (white grape) and Mavro (red grape) cultivated in Cyprus. These grapes are grown in the southern slopes of Troodos Mountains. Commandaria wine is rich in natural sugars and its alcohol content varies between 15 to 20% ABV.The Cypriot law (controlled designation of origin) legally permits production of Commandaria in a specific fourteen-village zone at the foot of the Troodos Mountain, between 500 and 900 meters above sea level.

History 

In the 12th century, after conquering Cyprus, Richard, the Lionheart organized his wedding there, raised a glass of Commandaria to his union with Berengaria of Navarre. He called the wine as “the wine of kings and the king of wines.”Later, the location surrounding the village of La Grand Commanderie was given to the Knights Templar by Richard and this is where the word "Commandaria" is thought to have originated. The growth and cultivation of vineyards in the region was greatly aided by the Knights Templar. The wine is said to be named in the 13th century by crusading knights. The renaming of the local wine was done in order to increase the sales of the wine among European aristocrats. 

Historical accounts have also mentioned this sweet wine, especially the works of poets and writers such as Homer and Hesiod. Some individuals believe that the Iliad's reference to a sweet wine from Cyprus in the Iliad is an early allusion to Commandaria. An attempt was made in the fourteenth century to grow vines from Cyprus in Portugal in order to replicate this wine. This is the history of how the famous Madeira wine was made. 

Making Commandaria

As was previously mentioned, Commandaria is prepared from two native grape kinds that are grown in certain vineyards on the southern slopes of the Troodos Mountains in Cyprus: Mavro, which is red, and Xynisteri, which is white. Late season harvesting usually allows the grapes to fully mature and generate high sugar levels. The concentration of sugars required for Commandaria's rich and sugary flavor depends on this late picking. Following harvesting, the grapes are stretched out on mats or trays and left in the sun for seven to fourteen days, a technique known as ‘stafili’, or traditional sun-drying. They dry out and concentrate their sugars, tastes, and smells throughout this period. 

The grapes are dried and then carefully pressed to release their highly sugared, deeply flavored juice. The fermenting process for the pressed juice (must) takes place in concrete or stainless steel tanks. In order to retain the grapes' inherent sweetness, the fermentation is purposefully stopped at a specific point, leaving behind residual sugar in the finished wine. After that, Commandaria is matured for a considerable amount of time—usually several years—in oak barrels. The wine gains depth from this maturing procedure, acquiring flavors of caramel, almonds, dried fruits, and spices.The wine may be blended to achieve consistency in flavor and style across different vintages. This blending process ensures that each bottle reflects the unique character and its quality. Commandaria, known for its long aging potential is finally bottled and labelled. The final colour of the wine largely depends on the proportion of Xynisteri and Mavro grapes used in the making. The light amber colour of the wine means the blend is having more of Xynisteri grapes whereas dark amber colour indicates the presence of Mavro grapes. 

Consuming Commandaria

The ideal serving temperature for Commandaria is 12–14°C (54–57°F), served in tulip-shaped glasses, and slightly chilled. A wide range of sweets go nicely with the wine, but those with chocolate, honey, caramel, nuts, and dried fruits go especially well. It’s a perfect pair for strong cheeses, such as old cheddar or blue cheese.

It can also be savored as a digestive by itself and serves as a lovely addition to a spectacular dessert spread or a stunning mealtime conclusion.

 

 

 
By Varghese Johnson
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Comment on this article

  • Dr Richard Pais, Bejai, Mangalore

    Sun, Jul 07 2024

    Congratulations Varghese for your informative article on Commandaria.


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