January 9, 2009
This was something I wanted to do throughout my stay in Mangalore. Days passed into months and months into years but somehow the roads failed to take me there. And finally it happened that December morn during my holiday. My dream of visiting the old port of Mangalore came true. And what a sight it was!!!
The Bunder area of Mangalore is known for the fishing dock/ harbour. Some locals call it 'Dakke'. I'm guessing the etymology of it comes from the English word 'Dock'. I was told that you have to go there very early in the morning and for someone like me, there is nothing more painful than having to wake up early.
I reached there at 4 am on a Sunday and the fishing boats were just making their way into the port. I still could not believe that I made it that early because on any other day 4 am was like midnight to me. The massive trawlers (another name of fishing boats) were bigger than any that I had known. Till recently I imagined fishermen using the small boats, rowing their way against rough waters and winning a catch for the day. But that day I saw at least forty huge fishing trawlers approaching the harbour at the break of dawn. Surprisingly the stench that I had prepared myself for was absent.
If I were to write about the 10 places to visit before you die, the fishing harbour would definitely find its place in my list. The visit is an experience in itself. The place just comes alive when the world is in deep slumber and the people get into what I would like to call an organized chaos. Each one has their designated role and just knows what to do. There is no confusion at all about which trawler goes where. The respective teams wait on the shore for the day's catch to come in. Some indulge in cleaning the fish, some in clearing the boat and some others in transporting and selling the day's catch.
Once the boats come in, running water is passed through the shoal or school (a group of fish as I had learnt in my primary class) to do the first round of cleaning. Fishermen with well-built bodies, at least ten in each boat pass on baskets of different fish onto the shore. There were tones of fishes of different colours, sizes and avrieties. As the baskets come in, the auction begins. The sight of hundreds of baskets of fish can leave anyone astonished. For each boat there is one main auctioneer who calls out ascending prices. The buyers subsequently shout out higher rates to bag the catch. The person who bids the highest walks away with the booty. This is the scene at ever step and continues till all the fish is sold which is about an hour and a half after the boats reach. The remaining of course goes to smaller fishmongers.
The auction is the most interesting. There are regular bidders and it is interesting to see how the auctioneer converses in various languages to attract customers. Looking at me in my casual jeans rolled up to my knee, a denim jacket to go with it and a camera in hand, I realized how he switched from Tulu to English and then back to Tulu once he realized I was not going to buy any. The auction for a basket of sardines begins at around Rs 150.
I do not know how to recognize the fish . I just know them as neatly cut pieces in my plate. I never took the trouble to find out names but with my friend's help, I was able to name a few. I recognized the prawns, shrimps, crabs, the sardines, mackerels and squids. My friend who is also the lens man behind these wonderful pictures told me that the rest were king fish, seer fish, ray fish, snappers, salmon, tuna, skate fish and shark. This visit has definitely made me browse 'Google' to find the edible fish varieties.
Amongst all other fish was a huge fish, which was at least three metres long. The fisherman told me that it sells for nothing less than five to six thousand rupees.
All around there was activity. There were men crushing ice, which I presumed was for the packing of fish. There were women carrying baskets of fish on their heads, I wonder how it feels when the water comes dripping onto the face. Some other women were by the side with their tools in hand cleaning fish. Their speed and the skill are truly commendable. Not to forget everyone sported a mobile phone, one trendier than the other. At all times, there are hundreds of birds hovering over the harbour skies attacking any fish that they can reach. They do not even spare the baskets taht people carry over their heads. A common sight was men screaming words i never understood while they were carrying fish to teh trucks. Later did i realise that these were to ward off the birds. In the midst of all this buzzling activity, I was probably the only wandering soul.
By 7am the entire dock was clean and it was time for the birds to feed on the leftovers. Before the rest of the world is on its feet, one section of it has already completed its activity for the day. I was on my way home reliving the scene before my eyes while I thought I'd tell you how fish is dried. But then I realized you'd rather not know or you won't relish dried fish anymore.
P.S: While visiting the dock, here are some fashion tips. Firstly leave fashion behind. Wear home clothes which you do not mind dirtying. Wear bathroom slippers unless you want your Nike's and Reebok's to be soaked in foul smelling fish water.
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