By John B Monteiro
Mangaluru, Dec 8: I am happy to read that Inasam’s Pereira Hotel at Hampankatta, Mangalore, is marking it centenary as noted on the home page of Daijiworld. My tryst with this heritage eatery goes back to 1954 and it is not a cherished memory. A bit of background to clear the fog is in order.
After passing SSLC through SVS High School at Bantwal in 1954 my next destination was St Aloysius College, Mangalore. Service buses linking Mangalore with mofussil points in the district were few. So, starting early morning my father and I trudged across hills and dales to hit the main road at Farangipet (An historical trading post of foreigners (Farangi – Portuguese who sailed up the river Netravathi from Bunder). Then we walked on the road (more like a cart road then) to reach Padil where we could catch a city bus for Hampankatta. All the while I had to carry a steel “trunk” containing my bed-sheets and meager clothes for my St Aloysius hostel stay in a building grandly named “Hill Palace”.
Our first destination after alighting from the city bus was Inasamache Hotel. We were served steaming boiled rice in a large plate and the waiter went to the kitchen to bring the rest of the bounty. I was so hungry that I took a fistful of rice and stuffed it into my mouth. My father flew into a rage and loudly castigated me for my lack of manners and patience.
But, I never held it against my father or the hotel as reflected in the following excerpts from an article which I wrote six years ago for The Hindu Metroplus.
People are nostalgic about old eateries. One such, Pereira Hotel, is situated at Hampankatta, in the heart of Mangalore. It is an institution where scores of blue-collar workers and middle class people satiate their hunger at affordable prices. It serves authentic Mangalorean food, using recipes handed down to the cooks by its founder, Ignatius (Inasam) Pereira.
It is recalled that while working as a butler at Milagres Parish House, Pereira was encouraged by the Vicar, who also provided seed capital to start an eatery. It was launched in 1921, in a small, low-roof-tiled room, where he offered simple, wholesome meals.
Pereira Hotel, then known as Inasamache Hotel, drew crowds of farmers who came to Mangalore from rural areas and managed to find cheap food.
Inasam ran the hotel till his death in 1975, passing the ladle to his son, William, who ran it till his death in 1987. It was then inherited by his two sons, Oscar and Oliver, the latter being the owner since 1993.The original one-floor structure has given way to a storeyed building, with the hotel operating at three levels. It has seating capacity for 100 diners on ground floor and for another 70 on the first floor. The present manager of the hotel is Mr. Victor D’Costa.
A meal basically consists of a full-plate of boiled rice, a bowl of rasam (saaru, for vegetarians) or fish or meat curry, a vegetable and a salad. The lowest price for a standard meal is Rs. 15. There are extras on offer which can be ordered on “full” or “half” plate basis, depending on one's budget and appetite.
While the working people patronise the ground floor dining hall, there is a family dining hall on the first floor. In addition to meat and fish dishes, the hotel offers sannas, chapatis, parotas and pancakes. As far as the main course is concerned, try out the pork sarpotel, chilli fry and vindaloo and roast on special days. Special masala fish, fish molly and oil fried masala fish are some of the other specialities. A similar range is also available in mutton and chicken. The speciality of the hotel is ‘Pork Chilly’. The premium item of the menu “Pork Fatless Special” is priced at Rs. 150. The other popular dish is ‘Pork Sarpotel’ priced at Rs 50 for half plate. The availability of fish dishes and their (varying) prices depends on seasonal supplies. The hotel lays great emphasis on offering authentic, wholesome Mangalurean meals at affordable fares. .
Many NRIs, returning from abroad, often head back to the hotel for its tasty meals and to grab a bit of nostalgia. Even as new hotels and restaurants spread across the city, this eatery has, and would have, its share of regular, loyal patrons.